Passengers, Mumbai’s taxi drivers tell me, come in blocks of time. The ones in the morning are perpetually late for work and impatiently command drivers to break signals and bombard the streets with relentless honking. A fair number of morning passengers finish embellishing themselves within the confines of the taxi: men comb their hair, women dab their chins. They talk on the phone. Afternoon passengers are more sluggish, drunk with heat and tired of the world. They stare out the window and don’t mind if drivers softly play old Hindi numbers on the radio. The sadder the song, the better matched the music to the mood of these passengers. “But the most colourful ones come at night,” this one driver tells me. I sense a story coming and lean slightly forward. I am the atypical morning customer - punctual and all set for a slow conversation. “One evening this person asked to be driven to Bandra,” the driver begins. “I was thrilled because Bandra meant over ...